Noon report

• Position: S 37° 38.72′, E 176° 10.92′
• Speed: Moored
• Course: Moored

We had an early excursion this morning so we slept in and skipped the morning walk. (It was either that or get up early, as if.)

We gathered in the Theatre at 8:30 and waited for our group to be called. Then we joined the queue wandering down the hall and down the stairs to the gangway where we boarded our bus for the trip to a Marae (traditional Maori meeting complex). Along the way our guide, a primary school teacher in a Maori-language school explained the Pohiri (formal welcoming ceremony) that we would experience upon arrival. He described the Marae and identified the Wharenui – the meeting house, the Marae Atea – the open space in front of the Wharenui, the Wharekai – dining hall and cooking area, and the ‘necessary’. He also taught us several key Maori words (Kia Ora! – greeting/please/thank you/good health to you, Ka Pai! – Well Done!, Tane – Male, Wahine – female, Whanau – family, Whare – house, Tauranga – anchorage, Aotearoa – New Zealand) and a song that we will sing as part of the Pohiri. He also gave us a brief overview of his lineage (sub-tribe, tribe, canoe) which relates to the specific canoe his ancestor Takitimu arrived in New Zealand on.

Once we were gathered we were assembled in the Marae Atea in front of the Wharenui with the women in the front and the men in the back (indicating that we came in peace – Why does this sound a bit familiar?). The warrior standing in front of the Wharenui presented a challenge demonstrating his strength and skill in battle. Then he placed a small leafy branch on the ground and backed away. Our ‘chieftain’ (one of the passengers had been selected) moved forward and picked up the branch indicating his desire to come in peace. The warrior then did another dance and the singer began a chant of welcome following a brief moment of silence to honor ancestors she again chanted an invitation for us to enter the Wharenui (after we had removed our shoes).

Sadly, no photography was allowed inside but once we were seated (this time with the men in front) there were speeches, first in Maori, then in English, then by our chieftain, then another song, then we sang, then a traditional greeting. Normally this is done by pressing foreheads together (a sign of unifying thought) and pressing noses together (a sign of exchanging breath). With Covid, however, the greeting involved shaking hands (followed by a squirt of hand sanitizer).

Then they talked. They explained the symbolism of the Wharenui – how the roof beam represents the ancestor’s spinal chord, the roof trusses represent the rib cage, the center pole represents the heart, how the intricately carved totems spaced around the walls represent the ancestors of each of the Maori tribes – so that anyone visiting the Marae can feel a connection to their tribe. They also described the wall coverings and the process for weaving them out of flax. Then they answered questions, lots of questions. It was great!

Eventually they called a halt to this phase and we put on our shoes and moved to the Wharekai where they served tea, coffee, juice, cookies, and displayed handicrafts made by their tribe – which they were very willing to trade for our money.

Then we loaded back on the bus and moved to a nearby Maori Language High School.

There their Maori dance team entertained us by demonstrating several of the forms of traditional song and dance.

They also got us involved.

First they showed us:

Then it was our turn:

This one they didn’t let us try.

Afterwards they answered questions and posed for photos.

Next the bus took us to the top of a nearby mountain to get a view of the bay and lands.

Mauao is the traditional iconic symbol of Tauranga. Our guide told us the legend of the mount that was insignificant as a small hill among the larger volcanic cone mountains, so in order to impress a girl, he arranged to be towed out to sea so he could be taller than his surroundings. Unfortunately the project was interrupted by sunrise so the mount now stands in the mouth of the bay.

Finally we were driven along the extensive shoreline/beach area where there was significant activity (this being a Saturday) in addition to a beach volleyball tournament and other activities.

Along the way we learned:

• Of the roughly 115,000 population of the area, 15% identify as Maori.
• Maori means ‘normal people’
• There are 27 Marae in the area, 10 belonging to our guide’s tribe
• They have 2 K-Marts, no Walmarts, and they just got their first Costco.
• Tauranga is located on the “Bay of Plenty” – named by Captain James Cook because the Maori villages in the area seemed to have significant quantities of food
• The port of Tauranga is the largest and busiest port in New Zealand

Returning to the ship we dumped our stuff in the room and grabbed a late lunch.

Back in the stateroom we decided we weren’t quite ready to stop exploring and we had just over an hour before the ‘back on board’ time so we headed out on our own.

We were back in plenty of time and started uploading photos as we waited for the 4:30 port talk on Wellington.

Then it was back to the room to work on the videos.

After dinner we turned in a mighty effort at BBB – scoring 12 of 18. We were impressed.

So that’s Tauranga. Tomorrow is Napier.

See you then, R