We had 2 events scheduled for today – neither before noon – so we met Steve and Billie for breakfast at a relatively decent hour, then returned to our room for a nap (Cheryl is better, but she still struggles a bit with stamina) and screen time (like posting Day 10 and the Green Vault from Day 8 and trying to get a handle on the seriously ignored inbox.
Shortly before noon we met several of our shipmates in the lobby and boarded a bus headed for the Lobkowicz palace. The Lobkowicz family traces it’s noble heritage to 1568 when Zdenko Adalbert Popel was named 1st prince Lobkowicz. The current prince is 13th in the line. Following a period of exile, first from the Nazis and then from the Communists the current prince left his career in real estate in Boston and returned, with his American wife in 1990 to restore, redeem, and manage the family estates. At present their collections comprise the largest private art collection in Europe (and they are continuing to seek restoration of works confiscated during the period of exile. Since 2007 they have opened their palace as a museum and it appears that Viking is one of their major customers.
Arriving at the Prague Castle we walked to the north end where the Lobkowicz Palace is the northern-most part of the Castle.
Along the way we got a better view of the golden mosaic on the east side of the cathedral.We passed thru another courtyard. The guide mentioned that Hitler once gave a speech from that balcony.So…past the cathedral, across the courtyard, down the lane, and we arrived.
We meet the castle manager who greeted us, told us where to find the restrooms, and ushered us into the dining room. There we joined people from another Viking cruise for lunch. Next we were guided to the music room where…
The prince dropped by to say hello, welcome us to the palace, talk a bit about their history and the ongoing work of the family operation, trash the Yankees (as any good Bostonian would), and wax eloquent about their love of music.Then the manager introduced the piano trio who performed works by Hayden, Mozart, Beethoven, Schumann, and (if course) Dvorak. They were really good and it was a fun concert.
Next the manager ushered us out to ‘the terrace’. This large balcony offered a great view of Prague.
The bridge with all the people on it is the Charles Bridge
Then she handed out audio sets and turned us loose on the collection. Here are a few of the most interesting, or significant pieces.
This is a scene from ‘the defenestration of Prague’. The story goes that the 30 years war began when a group of Protestants threw 3 Catholic leaders out of the window. In this scene Polyxena of Pernstein (wife of the 1st Prince) faces down the Protestants while the (injured) Catholics are in the background. The current prince told us that the family story is that she hid the Catholics in her voluminous skirts. Either way the Protestants succeeded in defenestrating the three men. One died but the other two landed in a dung heap and escaped.This painting, attributed to Velazquez, is of 4 year old Dona Margarita Teresa. It may look familiar to those familiar with the Velazquez painting Las Meninas – hanging in the Prada Museum in Madrid. It’s the same girl, at the same age in the same dress but the pose is different. Still, it’s interesting to see Velazquez ‘borrowing’ subjects.A little further on in the ‘treasures room’ we found a Nautilus shell with the Baptism of Jesus carved into it.In the same room we saw some exquisite miniatures. These two are carved from IvoryThese two are carved from sugar!The next room was the weapons roomFollowed by the music rooms. This is the most recently completed section of the museum and contains interesting technology to enhance the amazing collection. This is an original score to Beethoven’s 3rd Symphony.This is the original 1st violin part for Beethoven’s 5th symphony. Beethoven was a friend and frequent guest of the Lobkowicz family.
The music rooms contained a few other significant scores along with displays of instruments, audio recordings, original payroll registers for musicians, and such.
Next we came to one of the highlights of the collection.
‘Haymaking’ by Pieter Bruegel the Elder is a significant work in art history as well as a detailed (and even humorous) look at the lives of common people. Bruegel is one of my favorites and I really enjoyed seeing this work.‘London: The River Thames on Lord Mayor’s Day’ by Canaletto is another really significant work in the collection. It is one of two large paintings by this celebrated artist.I got stuck in the Canaletto room and missed the chapel – but Cheryl got there. The book on the table is for people to share their feelings and words of encouragement for people in the Ukraine.On the way out I found a picture of the current Prince William (on the right) his wife Alexandra (on the left) and their children.
It was a very interesting and enjoyable event – a great way to spend an afternoon.
We got back to the hotel with just enough time for a quick comfort stop before reboarding the bus to leave town headed for a small village and a ‘folklore dinner’.
We were entertained thruought the meal by this trio – Violin, Bass, and Hammered Dulcimer.
The food was very good (I mean Really Good). The beer and wine were plentiful. The company was interesting (We sat with a group from another Viking cruise. At one point our cruise director had mentioned that Viking’s largest European presence is in Prague, so there are people from several Viking ships staying in multiple hotels around the city.) and the entertainment was fun. Here are a few videos for your enjoyment.
Being all danced out (Ya, Right, that’s why we were a bit unsteady) we reboarded the bus and returned to our hotel to sleep, perhaps to dream, maybe even to hum a melody or two.
So that was a day. Wednesday is a mostly free day. We’ll see how it balances between recovery and adventure.
